Maldives

The Maldives is a chain of 1,192 coral islands strung across the Indian Ocean, and a holiday here doesn't have to cost a fortune. Alongside the one-island resorts, many inhabited "local islands" now welcome visitors in small guesthouses and hotels, so you can snorkel the same reefs and walk the same white sand for far less.

Why go

The water is the reason. Swim with turtles and reef sharks on a snorkelling trip, look for whale sharks off Dhigurah, where they are seen all year, and spend an afternoon on a sandbank with nobody but your boat crew. On a local island you also see everyday Maldivian life: fishing boats in the harbour, the mosque at prayer time, tea shops serving hedhikaa in the afternoon. If you'd rather have a pool bar and an all-inclusive plan, value resorts close to the airport give you that too.

When to go

It is warm all year, typically 26–32 °C. The dry north-east monsoon, roughly December to April, brings the calmest seas and the most sunshine, and it is the busiest time to travel. From May to November the south-west monsoon brings more wind and showers, but also quieter islands, good surf on the outer reefs and the manta season at Manta Point in North Malé Atoll. Whale sharks stay in South Ari Atoll year-round.

Getting there from the UK

British Airways flies non-stop from London Heathrow to Velana International Airport (MLE), on an island next to the capital, Malé, and Virgin Atlantic adds seasonal flights; the journey takes around ten hours. Plenty of travellers connect instead through Dubai, Abu Dhabi or Doha, which opens up regional UK airports. From the airport you continue by speedboat, public ferry, domestic flight or seaplane, depending on your island. Tell us your airport and dates and we'll put the whole journey together.

Where to stay

• Maafushi (South Malé Atoll): the liveliest guesthouse island, about 35 minutes by speedboat, with a bikini beach, dive shops and daily excursions.
• Thulusdhoo (North Malé Atoll): around 30 minutes by speedboat, laid-back and known for the Cokes surf break.
• Dhigurah (South Ari Atoll): a long, narrow island with a sandbank at its tip and whale sharks offshore; two hours by speedboat or a short domestic flight.
• Ukulhas (Alif Alif Atoll): a small island known for keeping itself spotless, with a bikini beach and house reef.
• Value resorts: Embudu Village and Adaaran Select Hudhuranfushi are 20–25 minutes from the airport by speedboat, with house reefs and all-inclusive options.

What to do

Snorkel reefs, turtle spots and shipwrecks, swim with stingrays at Fulidhoo, picnic on a sandbank, look for spinner dolphins at sunset and try traditional night fishing. Take your first breaths underwater on a try-dive, or spend a morning in Malé for the coral-stone Friday Mosque and the fish market before your flight home.

Food

Maldivian cooking is built on tuna and coconut. Breakfast is mas huni (tuna, grated coconut, onion, chilli and lime) with roshi flatbread. Garudhiya, a clear fish soup, comes with rice, lime and chilli, and afternoon tea means hedhikaa: fish cakes, bajiyaa and mas roshi. Guesthouse kitchens also turn out pizza, pasta, curries and grilled reef fish.

Good to know

• Local-island rules: the Maldives is a Muslim country. On inhabited islands alcohol isn't served and swimwear is for the bikini beach and excursion boats; dress modestly in the village. Resort islands are exempt.
• Money: the currency is the Maldivian rufiyaa; US dollars are widely accepted and resorts charge in dollars.
• Time: UTC+5, so 5 hours ahead of the UK in winter and 4 in summer.
• Plugs: 230 V, with a mix of socket types including the UK three-pin; bring an adaptor to be safe.
• Language: Dhivehi; English is widely spoken in tourism.
• Entry: check the latest entry rules, including the online traveller declaration, before you fly.